Reviews

The Dubliner

Despite a sign apologising for unfinished work, the lavatories at Vermilion are already among the top five in Dublin. If it sounds like we're damning with faint praise, forget it: food is also excellent in this spacious, modern Indian. Nisheeth Tak is one of the most charming men in the business. He started at Saagar on Harcourt Street, then managed Poppadum in Rathgar and the superb Jaipur on South Great George's Street. Vermilion is his first venture as a proprietor; it's one of the best restaurants to open in the city over the last year.

The menu is Indian fusion - lots of classics, alongside more off-beat choices like duck rolls and beef pepper - all using fresh ingredients prepared with style and imagination. Prices are cheaper than surroundings would suggest, about €7 for a starter and €19 for main courses. Our only gripe is that diners are deprived of one of the all-time great combos, curry n'lager - they don't serve beer.